I went in search of towering trees and salmon leaping upstream. A cool mist pervaded the entire journey as a constant reminder that the peninsula was entirely surrounded by water. Remote beaches were plentiful, along with the warning to keep a distance from the dead trees dotting the shore: wild waves could hurtle them towards land like toothpicks.
The surprise of a waterfall was just around the corner.
This was the Olympic Peninsula, a perfect setting for a solo road trip through the wilderness of Washington. The Olympic Peninsula was formed millions of years ago by the collision of earth's tectonic plates; specifically, the Juan de Fuca and North American plates. This activity created the Olympic Mountains, of which Mount Olympus is the tallest at 7,965 ft (2,428 m). Olympic National Park is a vast, protected wilderness area ranging from towering mountains to old growth forests and miles of stunning shoreline.
The most important thing to decide is personal travel style. Olympic National Park is a popular spot for campers and backpackers, but rainfall is abundant, especially on the western side of the peninsula (ie. Hoh and Quinault rainforests). I chose to stay in Airbnb's and lodges while peppering in a number of day hikes.
Here are some highlights from my five-day journey:
Bainbridge Island
While not on the peninsula proper, Bainbridge Island is a convenient stopover if coming from Seattle. Jump on the ferry for a quick trip over the Puget Sound, taking in the mountain views along the way. Stretch your legs in the Grand Forest, then hit the outdoor terrace (or cozy up to the fireplace) of The Beach House Bar.
Port Townsend
Grab a pastry at Blackbird Bakery before driving north to Port Townsend. This eye-catching seaport is filled with colorful 19th century Victorian mansions and odd shops, as well as the last remaining wooden fire bell tower in the United States.
Head west to Dungeness Spit, a sandy length of land jutting out into the Strait of San Juan de Fuca. It grows by more than 10 feet annually. If you hike to the lighthouse, be sure to do so at low tide.
“The shoreline is littered with giant pieces of driftwood tossed about by thunderous waves for centuries.”
Sol Duc Falls
The Sol Duc Valley is located 40 miles west of Port Angeles and has a number of scenic hiking trails through dense forests. The Sol Duc Falls are a major highlight, crashing 48 feet into the canyon below. I hiked along the Lover's Lane trail from the Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort to get there, but you can also access the trailhead from Port Angeles (1 hr 15 mins drive).
A note on lodging: when visiting the Sol Duc Falls, you can either stay within the Olympic National Park, or on the outskirts in a city such as Port Angeles where there are many lodging options. I would recommend against staying at the Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort. The cabins were grungy and overpriced. They are scheduled to be restored (as of 2019), so it might be worth checking back in the future, as the location is excellent.
Beaches of the Olympic Peninsula
No visit to the peninsula would be complete without a visit to one of the beaches along the Pacific Ocean. Their features are striking; the shoreline is littered with giant pieces of driftwood tossed about by thunderous waves for centuries. Gazing towards the horizon you'll notice sea stacks — odd columns of rock — remaining after surrounding cliffs were washed away.
I opted for Rialto Beach and Second Beach which are a 15 minute drive from each other. Be sure to have your camera at the ready as you approach the beaches.
Hurricane Ridge
Hurricane Ridge is one of the most visited areas of Olympic National Park, where visitors can hike, snowshoe and cross-country ski along multiple trails. I visited in September when the weather was dicey, though the clouds parted just long enough for me to take in the views. Note that it takes a good 30 minutes to reach the ridge from downtown Port Angeles, driving upwards to reach the visitor center at 5,242 ft (1,598 m).
Lodging
Food Tip
Nash's Organic Produce in Sequim is a good place for stocking up on fresh produce. There are limited food options on the peninsula, aside from Port Angeles, Neah Bay and Forks. Click here for more restaurant ideas on the Olympic Peninsula.